Stop looking confused, I’m not married. But if I was…and I was going on honeymoon, then the Hakone Kowakien Ten-yu has set the bar for my minimum expectations. So sorry to catfish you with that title, but I truly thought to myself when I arrived “I’m on honeymoon, this is the life!”. Luxurious and indulgent, but in that understated elegant Japanese way. A suite that has since influenced the way I live my life. Food that literally melted in my mouth and called my attention to parts of my taste buds that had heretofore not been tested. Your comfort is absolutely the number one priority. I’m losing the words to describe my time at this luxury ryokan but if I do, the pictures will hopefully cover my behind to testify instead.
I arrived in Hakone after a marathon journey from Tokyo Haneda airport involving 4 trains (including a bullet train). I was shattered and a bit annoyed when I couldn’t find the meet point for my shuttle to the hotel. I ended up getting a bus, got off at the wrong spot and just when I gave up hope, a shuttle with “Hakone Kowakien Tenyu” on its side drove up beside me and after waving at the driver, he stopped and enquired in halting English if I was looking for the Kowakien Ten-yu. At my yes, he promptly parked and jumped out to immediately load my bags into the bus and we drove off. The honeymoon I didn’t know I was on could finally begin.
Arriving at the hotel, I was struck by the politeness of the staff. There is polite and then there is a Japanese lady kneeling down at my feet to speak with me. It was rather disconcerting but I also understand that it is the culture and a form of showing respect. I was shown to my room my suite and oooooh weeeeeeee! This was the stuff of dreams! For context, a traditional Japanese ryokan (or inn) allows for visitors to get a full immersive experience of Japanese culture. They include guests dressing in traditional Japanese robes, an onsen (spring bath) both private and public, minimalistic bedding and also dining Japanese style. The onsen on my balcony overlooking the mountains awaited me and converted me into a person who takes baths now (but the shower still wins every single time!). The dressing table kicked my self-care routine up several notches (and has since been replicated in my flat in Denmark).
There are so many beautiful memories I have of this hotel. The design and decor were a masterclass in elegant minimalism, the food was (unsurprisingly!) a gastronomic delight and the attention to detail by the staff was second to none. From my morning yoga class to walking through the grounds, visiting the hotel onsen in the evenings or indulging in my private one on my balcony watching the sunrise, I could easily have stayed my entire visit in this hotel without leaving and not been bored. I’m glad I didn’t but I certainly was not ready to leave at the end of my stay. The bar has been set high!
